Guide to Berries

Red Raspberries



These are usually the priciest berries in the market because they’re more perishable and harder to ship than other berries. The velvety cultivated raspberries in the market are likely to be more mellow-flavored than the tarter raspberries grown in the wild. Examine packages carefully to make sure there are no visible signs of mold. Berries should smell sweet, not moldy. Rarely will you see a raspberry in the market with the stem attached. If you do, you’ll know the berry wasn’t ripe when picked. To prevent mold and mushiness, don’t rinse and drain raspberries until just before using.


Black Raspberries

Though fresh black raspberries are less available commercially than the red variety, they’re a common and tenacious, even invasive, backyard phenomenon. The flavor is similar to the red variety, but a little richer in taste. Ripe black raspberries are evenly dark purple-black; immature berries with pinkish or whitish spots won’t be as sweet.




Golden Raspberries

Because they’re fragile and don’t ship well, golden raspberries are a rarer find in markets. Except for color, they’re similar in appearance to red raspberries; their flavor is slightly sweeter. And, in case you’re wondering, the golden raspberry is a product of nature, not genetic engineering.


Blackberries

These more or less oblong berries look like overgrown black raspberries, with a distinguishing difference: When you pick a raspberry, the core remains on the bush and you’re left with a berry that has a hollow center. When you pick a blackberry, the edible core remains in the berry. As with black raspberries, look for fruit that’s purple-black all over; avoid fruit that’s still tinged with pink or white.


Blueberries

Tiny, wild blueberries are generally more intensely flavored than the large cultivated varieties commonly found in the market, but either may be used in recipes. Look for berries that are evenly blue (with a slightly dusty-looking whitish haze over the blue skin) without patches of white or green or pink, which indicate immaturity. Rinse just before using.


Strawberries

Choose strawberries that are deep red all over. Strawberries don’t ripen off the vine, and immature pale orange ones won’t be sweet; whitish tips will have to be cut off. Check the package carefully to make sure there’s no sign of mold or softness. With commercial varieties, size isn’t a predicator of sweetness; aroma is. In specialty stores, you may be lucky enough to find the tiny, wild and super-sweet French fraises des bois (literally, “strawberries of the woods”).


To prevent berries from becoming waterlogged, rinse them before hulling. To prepare the drained berries, trim the green stem end with a small paring knife or the tip of a vegetable peeler. A strawberry huller, a tweezers-like gadget, also works efficiently.

 
 
Red, White and Blueberry Shortcakes

These shortcakes, studded with blueberries, achieve what many others don’t: a tender, moist crumb. Top them with sweetened, sliced strawberries and a dollop of whipped cream, and you just might have the quintessential all-American dessert. For the prettiest shortcakes, use the smallest blueberries you can find.

4 cups sliced strawberries

1/2 cup plus 5 tablespoons sugar, divided

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 cup unsalted butter, chilled, cut up

3/4 cup half-and-half or whole milk

2 eggs, lightly beaten

3/4 cup fresh blueberries

1 cup heavy whipping cream

1. Combine strawberries and 1/2 cup of the sugar in medium bowl. Let stand at room temperature 15 to 30 minutes or until sugar is dissolved, or refrigerate up to 4 hours.

2. Meanwhile, heat oven to 400ºF. Whisk flour, 3 1/2 tablespoons of the sugar, baking powder, salt and cinnamon in medium bowl. With fingers, rub in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. With fork, stir in half-and-half and eggs until dry ingredients are moistened. Gently fold in blueberries. (Dough will be very moist and sticky.)

3. With well-floured hands, pat dough into rustic 9-inch round on parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Sprinkle with 1/2 tablespoon of the sugar.

4. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean and top is rich golden brown. Cool on wire rack 10 minutes to serve warm, or cool completely.

5. Meanwhile, beat cream and remaining 1 tablespoon sugar in medium bowl at medium-high speed until soft peaks form.

6. Cut shortcake into 8 wedges. Serve with strawberries; top with whipped cream.

8 servings

PER SERVING: 480 calories, 27 g total fat (16 g saturated fat), 7 g protein, 55 g carbohydrate, 135 mg cholesterol, 370 mg sodium, 3 g fiber

 
 
Old-Fashioned New York Cheesecake with Strawberry Glaze


This classic dessert is sometimes called Lindy's Cheesecake because it is said to have originated at that famous New York restaurant. It is traditionally topped with a dazzling layer of ripe crimson strawberries coated with shiny glaze. A perfect party dessert, this cake is best made a day or two in advance.

CRUST

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Dash salt

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 egg yolk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

FILLING

5 (8-oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar

1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 teaspoon grated orange peel

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup whipping cream

5 eggs

2 egg yolks

TOPPING

4 cups ripe whole strawberries, hulled

1/2 cup sugar

4 1/2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 1/4 cup cold water

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1. Heat oven to 400°F. Remove sides of 9 1/2- or 10-inch springform pan from bottom; generously spread 3 tablespoons softened butter on both bottom disk and inside surface of sides.

2. In food processor, combine flour, 1/4 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon lemon peel and dash salt; pulse to mix. Add 1/2 cup butter; pulse until large crumbs form. Add 1 egg yolk and 1/2 teaspoon vanilla; pulse just until it begins to clump. (Don't allow dough to form a ball.) Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes.

3. To shape dough for pan bottom, use generous one-third of dough. (Refrigerate remaining dough.) With lightly floured heel of hand, pat dough into thin layer over bottom disk of pan. Trim dough to inside edge of rim. Prick dough all over with tines of fork to prevent puffing as it bakes. Bake at 400°F. for 7 to 9 minutes or until light golden brown. Cool on wire rack. (Pastry sides are prepared later.)

4. In large bowl, beat cream cheese at medium speed until smooth and creamy. Add 1 3/4 cups sugar; beat until smooth. Beat in all remaining filling ingredients except eggs and 2 egg yolks. Add eggs and yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Scrape down bowl and beaters; beat until smooth.

5. Increase oven temperature to 500°F. If dough is refrigerated, bring to room temperature. To line pan sides with pastry, set springform ring on its edge; gently but firmly press remaining dough onto surface in an even layer up to 1/2 inch from top rim. Avoid getting dough into track that holds pan bottom. Fasten dough-covered sides to bottom disk containing partially baked pastry; secure spring. Set dough-lined pan on sturdy baking sheet.

6. Pour batter into pastry-lined pan. Add 1 to 2 inches water to a 13x9-inch pan; place in oven on bottom oven rack to add moisture during baking. Place baking sheet with cheesecake on center rack in oven.

7. Bake at 500°F. for 8 to 10 minutes or until golden brown. Reduce oven temperature to 225°F.; bake an additional 1 hour 5 minutes to 1 hour 10 minutes or until top is golden brown. Center should move slightly when pan is tapped but will not ripple as if liquid. Turn oven off; remove pan of hot water, but leave cheesecake inside with oven door closed an additional 30 minutes. Cool cheesecake on wire rack, away from drafts, 3 hours or until completely cooled. Refrigerate at least 6 hours; cover and store in refrigerator up to 3 days.*

8. To make glaze, crush enough strawberries to make 1 cup pulp. Place pulp in medium saucepan; add 1/2 cup sugar and cornstarch mixture. Cook and stir over medium heat 2 minutes or until mixture boils, thickens and is clear. Remove saucepan from heat; stir in 1 tablespoon butter and lemon juice. Cool to room temperature.

9. Up to 4 hours before serving, remove cheesecake from pan. Arrange remaining whole berries over top. Spoon about two-thirds of the prepared glaze over berries. Refrigerate at least 1 hour to set glaze. Pass remaining glaze as a sauce.

TIP *Cheesecake can be wrapped airtight and frozen up to 2 weeks; thaw overnight in refrigerator and add topping before serving.

16 servings

PER SERVING: 535 calories, 37 g total fat (22.5 g saturated fat), 9 g protein, 43 g carbohydrate, 210 mg cholesterol, 290 mg sodium, 1 g fiber


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